The Tower or Clock Tower of the Englishman, as it is widely known, is a historical building in Shkodër. During the communist regime, it was transformed into the Historical Museum of Shkodër. The architecture of the tower resembles a medieval aristocratic castle in Europe, built by the English lord Paget in the late 19th century.
History:
Before its Construction:
According to Hamdi Bushati, the area where the chateau (fr. chateau) was built, 100 years before its construction, used to be a marshland with roses growing.
Later on, the area behind the chateau, which later became part of the Englishman’s house, belonged to a man named Abdullah Aga Domnori. Over time, the Ottoman authorities seized the Domnori house and made it their own. During that time, the Ottoman authorities in Shkodër provided shelter to a political opponent of Prince Nikola, who was known to be from the Mercariç family. The Mercariçani had ties with Filip Beroviqi, a member of the administration, and he sought refuge in the confiscated Domnori house.
Later on, the house where the Mercariçani resided was divided into two parts: the front part was bought by the English lord Paget, while the back part was granted to a man named Boxho Mikashiq from Montenegro. The Mikashiq family then sold the house to Jakup Dervishoviq, and after the liberation, this house merged with the Clock Tower of the Englishman.
The Chateau as an Anglican Church:
“There, at the top of the slope, near Salihaga’s well, the Englishman’s Clock Tower, like Hajdaraga’s mill!” Or another variant of the last verse, “As high as Rrok Man Dakaj’s headdress!”
Dedicated ballad.
Shatoja si kishë anglikane “Këpucaxhia në maje të bizit Te pusi i Salihagës, Ç’po punon Sahati i Inglizit, Si mullini i Hajdaragës!” Ose varianti tjetër i vargut të fundit, “Porsi kualt e Rrok Man Dakës!”
Bejtja e kushtuar.
After purchasing the house, Paget planned to rebuild it as a residence in a castle style. The Englishman only visited during the winter, engaging in hunting and antique trade. The house was under the care of the deputy/consul of England, Kolë Suma. Financed by his father, the chateau was intended to serve as the base for the Protestant mission in Albanian lands.
Once constructed, the main hall was adapted in an oriental style, with high ceilings, galleries, and other features resembling churches and Protestant chapels. The Clock Tower of the Englishman would serve to ring the bells during the liturgy. Brochures promoting the Protestant rite were distributed, and the Englishman paid some Catholic adventurers, including one named Ndrekë Protestani, to spread Protestantism. However, due to protests from the Catholic clergy, supported by the Austro-Hungarian consul, the Ottoman authorities intervened against the Englishman’s work, and the building remained only as a residence.
Since the Englishman’s intention to spread Anglicanism was unsuccessful, instead of bells, a large clock with three faces was installed on the tower. During the end of the Ottoman rule, the clock was not well-maintained by its custodians, and for this reason, a shoemaker’s apprentice made a bejte (a wager) with the clock.
Later Owners, the Museum:
After the international occupation of Shkodër, the Admiral’s Commission was established in this house. Afterward, Paget gifted the house to an English officer during the time of Zog.
The English officer sold the house to the merchants Salih Mehmet for 40,000 francs, along with another house, in 1930.
After the communist regime came to power, the castle building was nationalized, and in 1949 it became the People’s Museum at that time. The Clock Tower was taken over by the Firefighting Service (MKZ). In 1966, Peter Ustinov described it as the “sole Western thing” in the city.
After the ’90s, with the return of properties to their former owners, the museum was moved to the reconstructed house of Oso Kukës, while the Clock Tower of the Englishman was left entirely neglected. In 2014, an unauthorized construction was built near the historical building, raising concerns.
Structure of the Tower:
The house was composed of 15-16 small and large rooms. Before the opening of the Migjeni theater road, the yard of the house was closed by a large double door gate, decorated with ornaments and the coat of arms of England. The gate was imported, and a tower with guard rooms and reinforced iron windows was built next to it. However, the gate and tower were destroyed during the opening of the road.
